The vibrant blue and green hues of turquoise are synonymous with the American Southwest, deeply woven into the artistic and cultural fabric of places like Santa Fe. More than just a gemstone, turquoise carries centuries of history, spiritual significance, and a unique geological story.
A Stone of Sky and Earth: The History and Formation of Turquoise
For millennia, turquoise has been treasured by cultures across the globe, from the pharaohs of ancient Egypt to the emperors of Persia. However, nowhere is its connection more profound than in the American Southwest. Here, for thousands of years, Native American tribes such as the Navajo, Zuni, and Pueblo have revered turquoise as a sacred stone. It symbolizes water, the sky, health, protection, and good fortune, playing a central role in their ceremonies, adornment, and trade. Ancient turquoise mines in the region, like those near Cerrillos, New Mexico, are among the oldest in North America, showing evidence of extensive mining even before European contact.
Geologically, turquoise is a hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminum. It forms over millions of years in arid regions where water, rich in these minerals, seeps through rock. The copper typically gives it its blue coloration, while the presence of iron often leads to greener shades. The surrounding rock, known as the matrix, can also be incorporated into the stone, creating those distinctive spiderweb patterns or beautiful veining that many collectors cherish. Its relatively soft nature, typically a 5-6 on the Mohs hardness scale, also contributes to its unique character, allowing it to be easily worked by artisans but also making it susceptible to changes over time.
Why Turquoise is a Santa Fe Must-Have
Visiting Santa Fe and experiencing its turquoise scene is more than just a shopping trip; it's an immersion into living history and art. Acquiring a piece of Santa Fe turquoise allows you to:
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Connect with Authentic Artistry: Many pieces are directly crafted by Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo artisans, offering a direct link to their traditions, stories, and incredible skill. It's a chance to own a unique, handcrafted piece of wearable art, not just a mass-produced item.
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Embrace Cultural Significance: Each piece of turquoise jewelry from the Southwest often carries layers of cultural meaning. It's a tangible connection to the spiritual beliefs and historical narratives of the region's indigenous peoples.
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Invest in Timeless Beauty: High-quality, natural turquoise from known mines can hold or even increase in value over time. These are not just souvenirs; they are potential heirlooms, pieces of a rich legacy that you can pass down.
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Experience a "Living" Gem: Natural, untreated turquoise can subtly change color with wear over time, reacting to the wearer's skin oils and environment. Many believe this makes the stone "live" and deepen its connection to its owner.
Five Things Most People Don't Know About Turquoise
Even for those familiar with its beauty, turquoise holds many fascinating secrets:
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It Can Be Porous: Natural, untreated turquoise is somewhat porous, meaning it can absorb oils, lotions, and even dirt. This is why some natural pieces develop a darker patina or slightly change color over years of wear. This is often seen as a desirable characteristic, indicating the stone has "lived" with its owner.
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Not All Blues are Created Equal (or from the Same Place): While the robin's egg blue of Sleeping Beauty turquoise from Arizona was once the industry standard for perfection (and that mine is now closed, making it rarer), turquoise comes in a vast spectrum of blues and greens. Its specific hue and matrix patterns are often indicative of its mine of origin, with mines like Kingman, Carico Lake, and even our local Cerrillos producing distinct and highly sought-after varieties.
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"Dead Pawn" Turquoise is a Thing of Beauty: In Native American communities, jewelry can be pawned for cash when needed. If not redeemed, it becomes "dead pawn" and can be sold. These pieces are often vintage, made by master artisans, and carry unique historical value, making them highly desirable for collectors.
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Beyond the Stone: The Craft Matters Immensely: The true value of a turquoise piece isn't just in the stone itself, but often equally, if not more, in the quality of the silversmithing and the artistry of the setting. Intricate techniques like channel inlay, mosaic inlay, cluster work, or elaborate hand-stamping on sterling silver signify immense skill and add significantly to a piece's worth.
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Healing and Protective Properties: For many cultures, especially Native Americans, turquoise is believed to possess powerful protective qualities, warding off negative energy and bringing good fortune. It's also often associated with healing, promoting well-being, and strengthening the mind and body. This belief system adds a deeper dimension to the stone's appeal.
What to Look For When Buying Turquoise
When you're ready to buy turquoise in Santa Fe, here's what to look for to ensure you're making a wise and authentic purchase:
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Understand the "Real" vs. "Fake" Spectrum:
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Natural/Untreated: This is the most valuable and rare. It's simply cut and polished. Expect natural variations in color and matrix.
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Stabilized: This is genuine turquoise that's been infused with resin to harden it, improve color, and enhance durability. It's real stone and very common in wearable jewelry, but less valuable than untreated.
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Reconstituted: Crushed turquoise dust mixed with resin, then reformed into blocks. It's technically derived from turquoise but isn't a solid natural piece.
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Imitations/Fakes: These are not turquoise at all. Common fakes include dyed howlite, magnesite, plastic, or glass. Look for unnaturally perfect color, a uniform plastic-like feel, or a complete lack of natural matrix. Always ask the seller directly about the stone's treatment or if it's natural. A reputable dealer will be transparent.
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Examine the Matrix and Color:
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Matrix: Decide if you prefer a solid color or a piece with intricate matrix patterns. High-quality matrix can add significant character and value.
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Color: While "robin's egg blue" is classic, appreciate the full spectrum. Intense, vibrant blues and greens are generally more valued than pale, chalky colors. Look for consistency in color within the stone, unless it's a natural variation.
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Look for Hallmarks and Quality Craftsmanship:
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Hallmarks: Most authentic Native American and fine Southwestern jewelry will have a hallmark – the artist's signature, a tribal mark, or a sterling silver stamp (.925). This verifies authenticity and the artist.
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Craftsmanship: Examine the silverwork. Is it well-finished? Are the settings secure? Is the design balanced and appealing? Poor craftsmanship can diminish the value of even good turquoise.
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Buy from Reputable Dealers:
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Your best guarantee of authenticity and fair pricing is to purchase from established galleries, trusted jewelers, or directly from artisans at recognized markets. These dealers are knowledgeable, stand behind their products, and can provide details about the artist and origin. Avoid buying from roadside stands or unverified sources where authenticity is harder to confirm.
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Ask Questions:
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Don't hesitate to ask the seller about the turquoise's origin (which mine?), its treatment (natural, stabilized, dyed?), and information about the artist. A knowledgeable seller will be happy to share this information.
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By understanding these aspects, you'll be well-equipped to find a beautiful, authentic piece of Santa Fe turquoise that you'll cherish for years to come.