Gems of the Past, Colors of Today: A Scenic Drive on the Turquoise Trail

Journey along a historic byway connecting Santa Fe to Albuquerque, uncovering quirky artist towns, rich mining lore, and the captivating spirit of Madrid and Cerrillos.

For a day trip that blends stunning high desert scenery with a fascinating dive into New Mexico's boom-and-bust mining past and its vibrant artistic present, look no further than the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway (NM State Road 14). This historic route offers a delightful alternative to I-25, winding its way through ancient hills that once pulsed with the search for precious minerals and now cradle quirky, creative communities. The stars of this trail are the former mining towns of Cerrillos and Madrid, each with a unique story and an undeniable charm.

The Turquoise Trail itself follows a path steeped in history, used for centuries by Native Americans who mined the rich turquoise deposits in the Cerrillos Hills long before European arrival. Indeed, archaeological evidence shows these turquoise mines are some of the oldest in North America, with their distinct blue-green stone prized and traded far and wide. Spanish explorers, arriving in the 16th century, also recognized the mineral wealth of the area, leading to further exploitation for turquoise, silver, and lead. Cerrillos ("little hills") became one of the oldest documented mining districts in the American West.

Madrid (pronounced MAD-rid, with the accent on the first syllable), a few miles south of Cerrillos, has a different but equally dramatic mining past. While the region around it had early gold discoveries (some say the first major gold rush west of the Mississippi occurred in the nearby Ortiz Mountains around 1825), Madrid itself became a major coal mining town. From the late 1800s, "Coal Gulch" boomed, with the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company establishing a classic company town that, at its peak, housed around 2,500 to 3,000 people. Madrid was known for its innovations, including having one of the first lighted baseball stadiums west of the Mississippi.

Both towns experienced the classic boom-and-bust cycle. When demand for turquoise and later coal waned (especially after World War II with the rise of natural gas), Cerrillos dwindled, and Madrid became a near ghost town by the 1950s. However, in the 1970s, a new wave of pioneers—artists, craftspeople, and free spirits seeking an alternative lifestyle—began to rediscover these communities, drawn by the dramatic landscapes and cheap, abandoned buildings. They breathed new life into the old mining towns, transforming them into the vibrant, eclectic destinations you can explore today.

Why This Day Trip is a Must-See and Do

• Scenic Byway Drive: The Turquoise Trail itself is a beautiful drive, offering expansive views of the Ortiz, Sandia, and Jemez Mountains. It's a more leisurely and visually rewarding route between Santa Fe and the Albuquerque area.
• Madrid's Quirky Charm: Explore Madrid's colorful main street, lined with unique art galleries (often artist-owned), boutiques, studios, and an undeniable bohemian vibe. It's a place where creativity flourishes in the shell of an old coal town.
• Old Coal Mine Museum & Mine Shaft Tavern (Madrid): Step back into Madrid's coal mining heyday at the museum, which features old mining equipment, vintage vehicles, exhibits on the town's famous Christmas light displays, and even a steam locomotive. Then, grab a bite or a drink at the historic and reputedly haunted Mine Shaft Tavern.
• Cerrillos' Old West Atmosphere: Wander the dirt streets of Cerrillos and feel like you've stepped onto a Western movie set. Visit the Cerrillos Turquoise Mining Museum (at Casa Grande Trading Post) to see local turquoise and artifacts, and perhaps try your hand at the petting zoo. The St. Joseph's Church adds to the historic ambiance.
• Cerrillos Hills State Park: Hike or bike through the historic mining district itself. The park offers trails with views of old mining claims and the surrounding landscape, providing a tangible connection to the area's mineral-rich past.
• Art and Craft Shopping: Both towns are excellent places to find unique, locally made art, jewelry (especially turquoise), pottery, and other crafts, often directly from the artists.
• Movie Magic: See the town of Madrid, famously featured as the setting for the biker comedy "Wild Hogs." Maggie's Diner, built for the movie, is now a popular gift shop.

Five Things Most People Don't Know

1. Ancient Gemstone Source: The turquoise from the Cerrillos Hills was mined by Ancestral Pueblo people as early as 900 AD and traded extensively, reaching as far as the Aztec Empire in Mexico and Mayan centers. It's some of the oldest and most significant turquoise mining activity in North America.
2. Madrid's Christmas Spectacles: In its heyday (1920s-30s), Madrid was nationally famous for its elaborate Christmas light displays, powered by the company's own coal-fed generators. Airlines would reportedly reroute flights during the holidays so passengers could see the spectacle from above. This tradition has been revived in recent years.
3. Cerrillos Was Almost the Capital: Believe it or not, during its mining boom in the late 19th century, Cerrillos was once seriously considered as a contender for the capital of New Mexico due to its bustling activity and central location.
4. The "Company Town" That Had It All: During its peak, the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company in Madrid provided nearly everything for its employees: housing (some cabins brought by train from Kansas), a hospital, schools, a company store, and even reportedly a place where illegal liquor could be distilled during Prohibition. Oscar Huber, the mine superintendent, was instrumental in making Madrid a model mining town.
5. Hollywood's Other Backdrop: While "Wild Hogs" is the most famous recent movie filmed in Madrid, the Turquoise Trail and its towns have served as a backdrop for numerous other films and TV shows over the years, including "Young Guns," "Convoy," and "The Man Who Fell to Earth."

A drive down the Turquoise Trail is more than just a scenic route; it's a journey through layers of New Mexico history, from ancient Native American miners to rugged coal town pioneers and the creative spirits who are shaping its present.