
Long before fast food and interstate highways, a visionary entrepreneur named Fred Harvey revolutionized travel across the American West. His Harvey Houses, strategically placed along the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, became legendary oases of civilization, offering weary travelers good food, impeccable service, and comfortable lodging. Santa Fe, a crucial stop on the railway, was graced with one of these iconic establishments, and its story is deeply intertwined with one of the city's most famous landmarks.
The Fred Harvey Company didn't just build restaurants and hotels; it built a reputation for quality and hospitality that was unparalleled at the time. In an era when westward travel often meant rough conditions and questionable meals, Harvey Houses were beacons of refinement. They played a pivotal role in opening up the Southwest to tourism, making it more accessible and appealing to a wider audience. Understanding the Harvey House legacy, particularly its Santa Fe chapter, offers a fascinating glimpse into the development of tourism and the unique cultural blend that defines "The City Different." The "Harvey Girls," the impeccably trained and famously courteous waitresses, became symbols of this new standard of service and played a significant role in shaping the social fabric of the West.
In Santa Fe, the Fred Harvey legacy is most prominently embodied by La Fonda on the Plaza. While an inn, or "fonda," has existed on this historic corner since the early 1600s, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway acquired the property in 1926 and leased it to the Fred Harvey Company. Under Harvey's meticulous direction, and with the design genius of architect John Gaw Meem and renowned architect/designer Mary Colter, La Fonda was transformed into a premier Harvey House. It became a luxurious destination, renowned for its fine dining, distinctive Southwestern architecture reflecting Pueblo and Spanish influences, and the exceptional service provided by the Harvey Girls. For decades, La Fonda served as a hub for travelers, artists, and socialites, offering a sophisticated and culturally rich experience at the end of the Santa Fe Trail and along the burgeoning railway lines. It wasn't just a hotel; it was an introduction to the art, culture, and hospitality of New Mexico, curated by the Harvey Company.
Beyond the starched aprons and delicious meals, the Harvey House story is full of interesting details. Here are five things most people don't know:
- Civilizing the West, One Meal at a Time: Fred Harvey's insistence on high standards for cleanliness, food quality, and service was so transformative that it's often said the Harvey Houses and the Harvey Girls helped "civilize" the often-rough-and-tumble American West.
- Mary Colter's Enduring Vision: Mary E.J. Colter, a pioneering female architect and designer for the Fred Harvey Company, was instrumental in shaping the "Santa Fe Style." Her work at La Fonda and other Harvey Houses incorporated Native American and Spanish Colonial aesthetics, creating a look that continues to define Southwestern architecture.
- More Than Waitresses: The "Harvey Girls" were a remarkable workforce. Recruited from across the country, these young women had to adhere to strict rules of conduct and received extensive training. For many, it was a unique opportunity for independence, adventure, and a respectable career, and thousands ended up marrying and settling in the West.
- "Indian Detours": The Fred Harvey Company, in partnership with the Santa Fe Railway, launched "Indian Detours" in the 1920s. These were curated motorcar tours that took travelers from Harvey Houses like La Fonda to explore Native American pueblos, archaeological sites, and scenic wonders of the Southwest, further popularizing the region. The guides for these tours were often well-educated women, initially also called Harvey Girls and later "Couriers."
- A Culinary Trailblazer: Fred Harvey is credited with creating one of the first restaurant chains in the United States. His company pioneered concepts like sourcing fresh ingredients (often via the railway itself), standardized recipes, and a consistent level of quality across numerous locations—innovations that influenced the entire food service industry.
Experience a Taste of History
While the original Harvey House railroad-based system eventually faded with the decline of passenger train travel, its influence on American hospitality and the popularization of the Southwest remains. In Santa Fe, La Fonda on the Plaza stands as a beautiful testament to this era, continuing to welcome guests with a spirit of hospitality that Fred Harvey himself would have admired.
For those intrigued by the culinary traditions of these historic establishments, "The Harvey House Cookbook: Memories of Dining Along the Santa Fe Railroad" by George H. Foster and Peter C. Weiglin offers a delightful journey back in time. It features over 200 vintage recipes, period photos, and fascinating stories from this legendary chapter of American history. If you'd like to try your hand at recreating some of the classic dishes that once graced the tables of the Harvey Houses, you can find the cookbook available for purchase.
Exploring the story of the Harvey House in Santa Fe adds another layer of appreciation for the rich history and cultural tapestry of "The City Different."
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