A Taste of Santa Fe History: The Story Behind the Five and Dime Frito Pie

Santa Fe is a city brimming with history, art, and incredible cuisine. From sophisticated fine dining to traditional New Mexican staples, there's something for every palate. But sometimes, the most iconic and beloved tastes are the simplest. Enter the Frito Pie – a humble yet legendary concoction of corn chips, chili, cheese, and onions. Ask anyone in Santa Fe about it, and they'll likely point you to one specific place: the Five & Dime General Store on the historic Plaza, the site of the former F.W. Woolworth. It's here, the story goes, that this unique comfort food was born. Let's dig into the history of this Santa Fe legend, why grabbing one is a must-do experience.

Context and History: From Woolworth's Lunch Counter to Plaza Legend

To understand the Frito Pie story, you have to picture the Santa Fe Plaza in the mid-20th century. Anchoring one corner since 1935 was the F.W. Woolworth store, a classic American five-and-dime – a bustling emporium of affordable goods, everyday necessities, and, significantly, a popular lunch counter. These lunch counters were fixtures in Woolworth stores nationwide, serving simple, quick meals and acting as community gathering spots.

Sometime in the 1960s, according to Santa Fe lore, a woman named Teresa Hernandez, who worked the Woolworth's lunch counter, created something special. Facing hungry patrons looking for a fast, cheap, and filling meal, she reportedly took an individual bag of Fritos corn chips, slit it open lengthwise, ladled in a generous helping of homemade red chile con carne, and topped it with cheddar cheese and chopped onions. The Frito Pie, served right in the bag, was born – practical, delicious, and perfectly suited to the busy lunch counter environment. Teresa worked at Woolworth's for decades, becoming something of a local icon herself, remembered fondly for her wit and kindness long after the store transitioned.

Now, culinary history is rarely simple. While Santa Fe proudly claims the Frito Pie via Teresa Hernandez, the timeline gets a bit messy. Fritos corn chips themselves were born in San Antonio, Texas, in 1932 when Charles Elmer Doolin bought the recipe from Gustavo Olguin. The Frito-Lay company (formed later) has records of serving a "Fritos chili pie" at a Dallas conference in 1949, and the recipe even appeared nationally on Fritos bags starting in 1962. Earlier mentions exist in Texas newspapers from 1946, and a casserole-style recipe appeared in Oklahoma in 1948. So, while Teresa Hernandez undoubtedly popularized – and perhaps independently invented – her specific, beloved version at the Santa Fe Woolworth's in the 1960s, making it a local institution, the absolute origin remains a point of friendly regional debate, mostly between New Mexico and Texas.

The historic Woolworth's store on the Plaza closed its doors in 1997, but thankfully, the story didn't end there. In May 1998, the space reopened as the Five & Dime General Store. Recognizing the location's legacy, the new owners kept the spirit alive, maintaining a general store feel with souvenirs and essentials, and crucially, preserving the snack bar in the back, ensuring that the tradition of serving Teresa Hernandez's famous Frito Pie could continue right where it started.

Why Eating a Frito Pie at the Five & Dime is a Must-Do Santa Fe Experience

Regardless of the historical debates, grabbing a Frito Pie at the Five & Dime is a quintessential Santa Fe experience for several reasons:

1. A Bite of Living History: You're eating a local legend in the very spot where the Santa Fe story began. The building itself is historic, located directly on the centuries-old Santa Fe Plaza. It’s a tangible connection to the past.
2. Nostalgic Charm: The Five & Dime isn't a trendy boutique; it retains the slightly chaotic, something-for-everyone charm of an old-school general store. The simple snack bar in the back enhances this feeling of stepping back in time.
3. The Authentic (Santa Fe) Way: Getting it served right in the Fritos bag is part of the ritual. It’s unpretentious, practical, and feels true to its lunch counter origins. Find a bench on the Plaza, peel back the bag, grab a plastic fork, and dig in – that's the classic experience.
4. Affordable Plaza Grub: Let's be honest, dining on the Plaza can be pricey. The Frito Pie offers a delicious, filling, and uniquely Santa Fe meal for just a few dollars. It's satisfying comfort food that won't break the bank.
5. It's a Story to Tell: It’s more than just lunch; it’s an experience. You're participating in a local tradition, tasting a piece of culinary folklore, and getting a story to share about your time in Santa Fe.

5 Things Most People Don't Know About the Five and Dime Frito Pie

1. The Origin Controversy is Real: While Santa Feans rightly cherish the Teresa Hernandez story, it’s worth knowing that corporate Frito-Lay records and Texas sources show variations existing before the 1960s. The Santa Fe version, however, has arguably become the most famous location-specific Frito Pie legend.
2. Teresa Hernandez's Enduring Legacy: The woman credited with the Santa Fe Frito Pie, Teresa Hernandez, passed away in 2019. Locals remembered her not just for the famous dish (which cost only 37 cents back in the early 70s!), but for her decades of work, her sharp wit, and her kindness to customers at the Woolworth's counter.
3. Still Served "In the Bag": Keeping tradition alive, the Five & Dime snack bar will still often serve your Frito Pie right in the Fritos bag if you ask (or sometimes by default). It’s the most authentic way to enjoy it.
4. They Swear the Chili Isn't Canned: Despite Anthony Bourdain's infamous crack about Hormel chili, the Five & Dime staff have consistently maintained that they make their red chile con carne from scratch every morning, using ground beef and New Mexico red chile powder, honoring Teresa's original approach.
5. Woolworth's Plaza Reign: Before it became the Five & Dime, the F.W. Woolworth store was a downtown Santa Fe fixture for over 60 years (1935-1997). Generations of locals and visitors relied on it for everything from school supplies to souvenirs, making its lunch counter a truly central part of community life.

A Taste Worth Trying

The Frito Pie at the Five & Dime General Store is more than just chili and chips in a bag. It’s a satisfying bite of Santa Fe history, a taste of Americana, a nod to a local legend, and a delicious, affordable meal right on the iconic Plaza. Whether you're a culinary historian, a comfort food fanatic, or just a curious visitor, make your way to the back of the Five & Dime, order one up (preferably in the bag!), find a sunny spot on a Plaza bench, and savor this unique piece of Santa Fe heritage.